Winter is on its way, but gardening season isn’t over yet. We’re still getting plenty of questions to Ask an Expert, an online question-and-answer tool from Oregon State University’s Extension Service. OSU Extension faculty and Master Gardeners reply to queries within two business days, usually less. To ask a question, simply go to the OSU Extension website and type in a question and the county where you live. Here are some questions asked by other gardeners. What’s yours?

Q: I have a cane fruit that was given to me from a trial plot. Essentially the farm had bought a sampling of a bunch of cane fruit to settle on a new crop. They called this plant a tayberry, but from what I’m reading it doesn’t sound like a typical tayberry. It has an upright habit, bears on floricanes and has coreless fruit. The fruit color is a red-pink, slightly darker than the typical grocery store raspberry. The shape of the fruit is more cylindrical than conical, but is rather short (just a bit longer than the typical raspberry). The canes grow 6 to 7 feet tall and are self-supporting. The primocanes never touch the ground (I tie up the floricanes, so no data there).

The primocanes are thornless; they do have very small thorns, more like burrs, mostly at the bottom. The floricanes will have slightly stouter "burrs". Essentially the size where it doesn't hurt to brush against them, but you don't want to grasp them barehanded. They reliably produce beginning in June for four to five weeks. The upper leaf color is a pale green and the undersides are white usually with five leaflets. Does this sound like a known variety? I'm including a photo taken June 6 in 2016. If anyone is interested in having a sample for a collection, I have more slips than I need. I have had absolutely no issues with disease or insects. Never had to spray with anything and only have to water a bit in the summer with them under 6 inches of mulch. It helps that they generally are done bearing before the summer heat really kicks in. – Benton County

A: The tayberry is a hybrid (or cross) between blackberries and raspberries so it has characteristics from both types of plants. Have you seen this OSU Extension publication from our berry experts? It lists out the characteristics of the many different hybrids and cultivars of blackberries. Check out page 6 of the pdf for a table of hybrids-including a description of the tayberry. Matching up with your photo and description it definitely sounds like this plant could be a tayberry. A another thornless hybrid on the list is the thornless boysenberry. But that fruit color is much darker purple than you describe and the fruit can be unevenly shaped. Sounds like you are doing a great job with your berry plot and best of luck for another healthy gardening season in 2020. – Brooke Edmunds, OSU Extension horticulturist

Will this heliotrope make it through an Oregon winter?

Q: I have a lovely smelling purple heliotrope plant in a pot that we got over the summer. It’s still flowering and has leaves, but they are starting to drop. What do I do with it over the winter so we can have it next year, too? I have an unheated garage I can put it in, but in my house won’t work because of allergies. Is it possible to save the seeds and grow my own starts indoors? If so, how for the seed collection part? I saw on the website about the growing under lights part. – Washington County

A: Heliotropes are tropical perennials. They like warm, humid conditions. They're grown as annuals in our area. To overwinter one, you would need a warm, sunny window in your house and a plastic tray with water to increase humidity. Probably the best thing would be to enjoy it now, then get another one next spring to enjoy until next fall. Heliotropes are beautiful plants and have that wonderful fragrance. This article gives additional information on them, How to Grow Heliotropes .

You can propagate heliotropes by seed or by cuttings, and you can collect and use seeds from your plants. This article gives good information on how to save seeds from heliotrope, How to Save Heliotrope Seeds. Basically, you cut off heliotrope flower heads when they are completely brown and dry. Then hold the flower heads over a sheet of paper or container. Rub the flower heads between your hands and roll gently to release the small black seeds. When the seeds are dry you can put them into a paper envelope to store them in a cool, dark place.

To plant the seeds, sow them 1 inch apart in seedling potting soil (this soil is sterilized to remove pathogens that can damage young seedlings). You need a germination temperature of 70 to 75 degrees. The most effective way to do that is with bottom heat in the form of a plant heating mat available in most garden centers or online. Bottom heat keeps the soil and roots warm. Cover the tray with plastic to keep the seeds moist. Germination can take some time, up to four to six weeks, but then you should see tiny seedlings emerge from the soil. Remove the plastic at this time. When the seedlings have a few true leaves, pot them with normal potting soil and give them very dilute fertilizer. As they grow pinch the leaves to get a bushier plant. Gradually repot the seedlings to larger pots until you have the size you desire.

Another method of propagating heliotrope is cuttings. With this method you get a clone of your plant. You can try cutting off a leaf and putting it into a jar of water. You should see roots develop, and then you can put them in regular potting soil. Another method is to cut a 5- to 6-inch growing shoot, then cut it again just above a leaf node. Strip the lower leaves, and cut off most of the upper leaves to help the shoot stay hydrated, Remember, it doesn’t have any roots at this point. Dip the end in rooting hormone. Prepare a pot of well-moistened germination/seedling mix. With a chopstick poke a hole in the mix, and gently insert the prepared shoot. Place the pot in a plastic bag and close it. In a few weeks, roots will form and you will see the shoot put on new leaves. Give it a few more weeks to get established, then repot it. This article has extensive information on root cuttings, Expand Your Garden with Rooted Stem Cuttings. – Anne Schmidt, OSU Extension Master Gardener

Roots from a large cedar tree may inhibit rhubarb growth

Q: I have an area in my backyard where I have about 15 rhubarb plants. As this area gets closer to a large cedar tree, the rhubarb has started to die out. Is there some fertilizer or other nutrients that can be added to the soil to get the rhubarb growing again? I have some goat manure that I have added, but it does not help. Any suggestions? Could you possibly test the soil to see what is needed? – Clackamas County

A: Soil needs for rhubarb include drainage, moisture and organic matter. Root competition from a big cedar could become an issue, as roots reach much further than the foliage drip-line. A big tree might cast shade on your rhubarb as well.

Details about soil pH and recommended amendments when planting are included in this publication: Grow Your Own Rhubarb, from OSU Extension. Note that manure, if used, is best aged first.

Soil tests in our area are available from A&L Western Agricultural Labs. Call about costs, how to prepare samples, and which tests they recommend for rhubarb.

If you’d like us to troubleshoot your location a bit more, consider attaching a couple photos of your area here. – Jacki Dougan, OSU Extension Master Gardener

Under or over-watering is a common houseplant problem

Q: I have a painted lady (hybrid) philodendron that is in a basement apartment. It’s been in a south-facing window that gets mostly afternoon light and I recently gave it a sphagnum moss pole. I’ve only had it about six months and it has only grown 1 leaf which is the only one left. I keep the soil damp. Is there anything that can be done to save it, or is it destined for death? – Multnomah County

A: Houseplants commonly struggle due to over- or under-watering. Light conditions, temperatures, pests and disease are other problems. Recommendations for philodendron include well-draining soil. Perhaps you are keeping the soil too damp. Allow soil to dry to the touch. If the plant seems lose in the soil, root rot might have happened. Re-rooting the top of the plant and using new potting soil is an option. Here’s a fact sheet from Clemson University. – Jacki Dougan, OSU Extension Master Gardener

More tips from Master Gardeners:

• How to control rogue raspberries
• Will grass grow in this soggy spot?
• How to attract hummingbirds to your garden
• How Oregon gardeners can help mason bees thrive
• Where to put a compost bin?

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