Best Of Belgrade, Serbia

Belgrade is a city which lies on two rivers, a city that “never sleeps.” The city lies on two international waterways, at the confluence of the Sava and Danube rivers, which surround it on three sides. Because of this position, Belgrade is fittingly referred to as the “Gateway to the Balkans” and the “Door to Central Europe.”

Belgrade is a city in transition, a city that’s trying to modernise and presumably boost tourism. It has a buzz about it, an edge, a vibrancy that is extremely appealing. This can be felt in its excellent biannual fashion week, a brilliant showcase of cutting edge Serbian design, its restaurants and nightlife, its regeneration of the area along the river Sava and the major renovation of the main square (expected to be completed by the end of 2019).

The renovation of the main square and the variety of restaurants and cutting edge fashion boutiques are good illustrations of a lively, vibrant city on the up. Yet Belgrade also retains its old world charm that is appealing to tourists, with the cobbled streets in the old town and historic buildings that have managed to escape the devastating effects of the civil war and those that are being rebuilt.

What To See And Do 

Start with a stroll up and though the Belgrade Fortress on a hill high above the city, parts of which are medieval. From its walls, you’ll have wonderful views of where the rivers Danube and Sava meet. Rent a bike to ride along the riverside, with stops for coffee and lunch in a “splav” (any cafe, restaurant or nightclub on the water is called a splav).

Take a break and contemplate the work of Serbian visual artists at the Museum of Modern Art. The museum was closed for ten years from 2007 due to the death of the architect. I’m not sure why another architect wasn’t promptly hired but it reopened in 2017 and it is certainly worth visiting.

The museum features an impressive permanent collection of Serbian artists, such as video work by the country’s most famous contemporary artist, Marina Abramovic who just opened a show there this month and paintings by 19th-century Serbian artists. A highlight is the Surrealist wall by Marko Ristic featuring his own collage work and photography, alongside the works of famous international surrealist artists like Yves Tanguy and Max Ernst.

Artworks can also be seen at the city’s two Royal palaces, including paintings depicting 14th-century folk poems and a porcelain set with each piece valued at 30,000 euros. Unfortunately the most valuable artworks, including a Rembrandt, were stolen when the Royal family was banished after the second world war by the communist regime. In addition to the artworks, furnishings and porcelain, the library is also impressive, with its gold ceilings and one of the largest private collections of books in Europe. 

While the White Palace is well known outside of Serbia, few foreigners realise there are two palaces in Belgrade. The current Prince Aleksandar Karadjordjevic and Princess returned to live in the Royal Palace in 2001 after the dictator Tito moved out while the White neoclassical palace also on the grounds, built by Prince Alexander for his three sons before he was assassinated in 1934, has never actually been lived in.

Another must visit is the Temple of Saint Sava built in 1936, southeastern Europe's largest Orthodox church. The church is dedicated to Saint Sava, the founder of the Serbian Orthodox Church and an important figure in medieval Serbia. It is built on the Vračar plateau, on the location where his remains were burned in 1595 by Ottoman Grand Vizier Sinan Pasha. The impressive, vast interior with a crypt covering 2,000 square meters, is covered with mosaics and fresco paintings of Serbian saints, including Saint Sava, from the Byzantine period.

Where to Shop

Ana Ljubinkovic ABO shoes shop is in cute area of old town with cobbled streets and lots of cafes. Near Ana's shop is Makadam, a bistro and store with handmade Serbian goods providing a fusion of tradition, modern, new and old, talent and hard work, aiming to contribute to the preservation of tradition and local production.

New shop openings and shopping areas are helping to promote Belgrade as a fashion hotspot. Belgrade Design Hub opened this year to showcase Serbian designers Budislave Keković and Jasmine Vujović while the new slick Rajiceva shopping center features international and Serbian designers. 

FAB living by Una concept store, in a gorgeous historic mansion, stocks over 60 brands including furniture, clothes and jewellery. Brands that caught our eye were award-winning Hota hota stainless steel jewellery, versatile Koishi silver jewellery and shoes by Mishka.

The Belgrade design district is a vibrant collection of shops in a former high end shopping mall  that was devastated in the 1990s during the civil war. Here you’ll find a wide range of Serbian designers offering custom made and ready to wear items. We were also pleased to find a record store, mascom.rs offering a decent selection of vinyl.

Where to Eat and Drink

Expect hearty portions whenever and wherever you dine out in Belgrade. Madera offers typical Serbian appetisers and platters of various grilled meats and vegetables. Don’t miss the red pepper dip or the Ćevapi (or ćevapčići), small sausage-like grilled portions of minced meat, served with flat bread and cream cheese. Manufaktura is a good dining choice for lunch or dinner. And Mama Shelter at the top of the Rajiceva shopping centre can be recommended for an extensive brunch and fabulous rooftop terrace. Dining beside the river is a must with Savanova bistro offering a chic option with fine food. For coffee or drinks outdoors, Boho Bar, a vast outdoor terrace on the grounds of the Fortress is fun. Bistro Grad is a great place for dinner, right in the heart of Belgrade, features quirky interiors, craft beer with a Balkan and Mediterranean menu. Try the Boletus pasta with mushrooms and zucchini and the vegan desserts are called cookies but they're actually delicious vegan cheesecakes made with nuts, dates and berries. Jazz Basta Cafe is an indoor outdoor bar with music tucked away right beside Brankov bridge, in one of the most beautiful parts of the old city.