Review: Buahan, A Banyan Tree Escape

Why book? With its innovative “no walls, no doors” concept, Buahan lets you experience the jungles of central Bali in their purest form—without having to rough it. 

Set the scene Waking up at Buahan is nothing short of magical: Only a gauzy curtain hangs between your bed and the chlorophyll-rich Buahan Valley fanning out right below your villa. Birdsong and cockrows echo between the hills, which roll on—mist-shrouded and palm-tufted—until they meet central Bali’s seven peaks in the hazy distance. The air smells damp and jungly (in the best possible way) and is sweetened with a hint of frangipani. There are just 16 villas and a two-story central pavilion from which a dreamy, lounger-lined infinity pool protrudes into the valley. I was the first and only guest when the hotel opened in June 2022, but I foresee these loungers filling up with honeymooning couples and globe-trotting retirees for whom the usual Ubud suspects lack the tinge of raw adventure Buahan offers.

The backstory This slice of undulating and still-untouched jungle north of Ubud has been in the hands of the Banyan Tree group for well over a decade and was the main inspiration for its new Escape offshoot–a rootsier, more culturally driven alternative to its modern, wellness-focused resorts around the globe. Before creating the construction blueprint, the team ran a months-long research project to study how the hotel would impact the social, agricultural, and cultural aspects of the surrounding area. These learnings now sit at the foundation of the Buahan concept and not only ensure that the hotel leaves a positive impact on the community, but also provide guests a level of immersion into the Balinese way of life that few other hotels of this caliber have managed to deliver.

The rooms Each of the 16 villas dotting the hillside is a balé, an open-air pavilion with creaky floors, girthy pillars from reclaimed ironwood, and vaulted roofs bedecked in wooden shingles. They have no walls, just breezy curtains for privacy and roll-down bamboo shades in case of rain. That said, they have all the trimmings you can expect from a hotel with an $800-a-night price tag: a smart air conditioning system cools the bed at night, and each balé has its own plunge pool with views of the valley. Bathrooms come with double sinks, hand-hammered copper bathtubs, and ornate wooden mirrors (each one unique) carved by Balinese carpenters. The balé’s views range from lush jungle scenes to terraced rice fields—snag balé number 12 to wake up with vistas of central Bali’s seven mountain peaks on the horizon. Rates from $850 per night.

Food and drink At the heart of Buahan sits The Open Kitchen, the hotel’s aptly named restaurant where amiable chef Eka Sunarya draws on hyper-local produce and the heirloom cooking techniques he picked up during his childhood in this very village. The menu is predominantly Balinese and mostly plant-based, and Sunarya has plenty of material to get creative with as the surrounding farms and jungles brim with little-known herbs and vegetables. Lunches, served family-style, include coconutty moringa soup cooked in coconut shell and pepes, banana leaf-wrapped packets of local vegetables and mushrooms grilled on charcoal. At night, Sunarya gives the kitchen a fine dining spin with ever-changing and plant-forward tasting menus that could include everything from grain porridge with local herbs and kampung egg confit to flower-flecked croquettes from peanut and edamame. But the open kitchen concept, with local produce and jars of pickles on display for guests to touch, taste, and smell, makes going off-menu just as enticing—just ask the chef for suggestions.

The spa Wellness is ingrained in Banyan Tree’s DNA, so Buahan’s Toja Spa is, unsurprisingly, top-notch. It’s spread out over a clutch of open-air bamboo pavilions which overlook the Ayung River (the sound of babbling water adds an extra layer of Zen to the treatments). Like the restaurant, Toja draws on local traditions with a spa menu that includes invigorating pijat massages and exfoliating scrubs with rice, ginger, and candle nut. For a more immersive experience, consider the water rejuvenation and meditation session, which takes place at Buahan’s own waterfall at the bottom of the valley.

The neighborhood/area Buahan sits on the fringe of a small village with the same name. It’s about a 30-minute drive from Ubud’s touristy center, but feels like a wholly different part of the island. This is Bali in the slow lane, devoid of Ubud‘s notorious traffic jams and souvenir stores, and with barely any other hotels in the surrounding area. This means that, apart from a few roadside warungs and temples, there isn’t a whole lot to see or do within walking distance from the lobby. But the hotel offers plenty of experiences to get to know the area, from countryside tours in a vintage VW convertible to blessing ceremonies at one of Ubud’s oldest sacred sites.

The service Utterly Balinese and therefore utterly lovely—all smiles and genuine ‘how-has-your-day-beens’. The staff members aren’t just part of a crew of butlers, receptionists, and cooks, but each play a role in Buahan’s enchanting story. Resort manager Puspa, born in a small village on the east of Bali, can tell you everything there is to know about the local traditions, while farm manager Wayan’s passion for sustainable agriculture is infectious.

For families Leave the kids at home. Buahan is strictly adults-only and won’t welcome guests below 18 years of age.

Eco effort Buahan walked the sustainability walk from its very beginning. During the construction phase, the group avoided the use of heavy machinery to keep most of the jungle intact and used ironwood reclaimed from boat piers and fishing boat decks as the main construction material. The villas are free from plastic, and almost every ingredient in the kitchen is sourced within a one-hour radius of the lobby.

Accessibility Not really. Gravel paths and stepping stones make the resort hard to navigate for guests with mobility problems, though a funicular zooming up and down the hillside does make it a little easier to get around.

Anything left to mention? The question on everyone’s lips: What about the mosquitos? After three nights here, the constellation of bumps on my legs proved that they were definitely there, but in much smaller numbers than I had anticipated. The housekeeping team fogs the balés every week to keep most of the biting insects at bay, and gardens teeming with mosquito-repelling lemongrass and zodia plants help keep them at a distance. Still, slather or spray yourself with plenty of repellent (there’s a natural one provided in your room) and make sure to close the mosquito nets around your bed at night. That said, Buahan isn’t for everyone. Those freaked out by creepy crawlies—or fist-sized lizards watching you shower—are better off staying elsewhere.