Aranmula Vallamkali: A Heart-Pounding River Spectacle
The Magic of Chundan Vallams and Teamwork
A Gift
When my wife, then girlfriend, first met my parents, she gave them a gift of 2 model snake boats. These were models of the racing boats they have in Kerala, these models had ornate teak bodies, with its crew members intricately carved from sandals wood each holding a pure white paddle (I think it was some sort of ivory substitute). They were each about 2 feet long, beautiful, and graced the top of my mother’s display case. My wife thought them to be a fitting gift as they encapsulated the spirit of Kerala.
Race Day Adrenaline
The exciting Aranmula Vallamkali (literally translates to “Aranmula boat race,” where Aranmula is the name of the town) snake boat races. The Aranmula Vallamkali is considered among the oldest snake boat races in Kerala, with origins dating back centuries. It attracts huge crowds of spectators on the Pamba riverbanks annually. Today, snake boat races thrive as cultural symbols of Kerala’s history, spirit of competition and teamwork. The festivals carry a big tourist appeal as well while upholding tradition.
History and Significance
Snake boats or ‘Chundan Vallam’ evolved from early fishing canoes and have been used in Kerala’s backwaters for centuries as modes of regal transportation, naval warfare, and for ceremonial purposes. The long, slender, canoe-like shape with raised prows allowed them to navigate Kerala’s lakes, rivers and shallow coasts swiftly. Racing these boats are believed to have trained warriors and develop battle readiness through teamwork, strength and boat maneuvering skills. Many legends trace the origins to local warring chieftains who used rowing competitions to showcase their prowess and superiority over each other. Snake boat races were patronized by kings as early as the 16th century, as well as being used for leisure and entertainment. The boats often featured in religious festivities as well. Races started being organized during festivals like Onam to boost agriculture, invoke prosperity, and reinforce community bonds. This ritualized the competitions.
The Chundan Vallam Boats
The sleek, majestic boats are massive 100-foot long, but only about 3 feet wide in the middle. Their canoe-like shape allows them to swiftly glide through the shimmering backwaters, powered by over 100 rowers moving in unison. Their paddles cut through the water in perfect symmetry, water flies as the paddles dip and rise, propelled by strong muscle power. Rhythmic songs urge the boats forward and resonate powerfully. There is a palpable energy in the air — a magical blend of history, culture and athletics. While cheers echo from crowded riverbanks as thousands witness the enthralling race.
The boats called Chundan Vallam (literally translates to “tapered boat” or “beaked canoe”) are a sight to behold. Constructed from wood like Anjili, with coir rope stitching. Carved from a single trunk. Curving up at the ends, with the prow rising to around 15 feet high. The stern tapers slightly. Often ornately decorated with colored parasols, fabric, flags, and other regalia.
Rowing in Rhythm
The crew must have practiced long and hard to produce the rhythmic movements and flawless teamwork required to race these boats at breathtaking speeds. The rowers fine-tune their coordination to function as one integrated unit. Their timing and technique are mesmerizing to watch. In my youth, this is something I would have been keen to get involved in. Unfortunately, those days are past and I can only admire the display from the bank.
Pride and Community Spirit
While friendly competition fuels the event, deeper meaning also flows through it. The race originally honors the presiding deity at the nearby Aranmula Temple. Today the community gathers to continue ancestral customs, and celebrates Kerala’s long tradition of snake boat racing and wooden boat building.
Have you ever witnessed the hypnotic snake boats glide by? I highly recommend adding Aranmula Vallamkali to your bucket list.
