One step off the plane in Reykjavik, Iceland’s capital, and you know your reality has shifted. At least that was my experience, thanks to my typical NYC backyard of skyscrapers, busy streets, and bustling crowds. (Or maybe it was the sub-30°F temps in mid-March.) Every traveler is immediately met with mountains and vast expanses of rocky land sitting beneath a crisp blue sky. Driving into Reykjavik, you pass hot springs and hills instead of the typical post-airport highways and housing developments. The country’s population density is one of the lowest in Europe—roughly nine people per square mile. For comparison, the state of New York is 416.42 people per square mile, a disparity you feel traipsing through the beautiful rugged land.
Needless to say, nature plays a large role in Icelandic culture (it’s hard to hide from the elements with statistics—and temperatures—like theirs). Reykjavik is known for its bathing culture, a practice bolstered by the naturally warm waters of the hot springs located throughout the country. I am admittedly a novice in the world of wellness as my idea of self-care consists of a strong cup of coffee and a really good book. So I was anxious and excited to dip my toe in the chilly waters (a temperature I can now vouch for thanks to a quick dip in the ocean) of Iceland’s wellness waters. In contrast to the frigid sea, the springs are actually hot, I promise. Subsequently, most of the wellness practices (dating back to the Vikings) revolve around this tension and movement between hot and cold. This entails thermal pools, cold plunges, saunas or steam baths, and more. This all seemed more natural (and palatable) than most modern wellness practices propped up by weird supplements and expensive treatments—I was game.
Part of this is the hot and cold shift you experience in everyday life, namely walking from the street into a cafe. I, allegedly, got very lucky with the weather. Each of the late March days broke in the 30s and the sun shone consistently. I did initially scoff at parka-clad locals proclaiming what perfect weather this was, but it really wasn’t as abrasive as I had feared. Dare I say, you do kind of get used to it.
After four days in the city, I can attest to nature’s presence in the city—it’s tough to forget when mountains are always looming in your eye line. Amidst all the natural vistas, standing beneath the Northern Lights was an unparalleled view—not to be cliche, but it was one of those bucket list moments that earned its keep on the list. Their fickle nature guarantees it’s always a gamble but the best time of year to see them is in the winter, specifically between September and April. Standing on the roof of the EDITION wrapped in a blanket, cigarette in hand (sorry mom, it’s Europe) staring up at this gaseous miracle is certainly an experience I won’t forget anytime soon. Ahead, discover my top recommendations inIceland, from hotel stays to hot spring dips. (A parting pro-tip: order a side of smoked salmon with every meal.)
Where to Stay in Reykjavik
Photo: Nikolas Koenig
The Reykjavik EDITION
One of the newer locations, The Reykjavik EDITION opened in November 2021. The space features Ian Schrager’s signature modern–yet indulgently luxurious–take on the wellness and sustainability-oriented capital of Iceland. The space was designed in partnership with local architecture firm, T.ark and New York-based studio, Roman and Williams with the guidance of ISC (Ian Schrager Company) design and the result is a modern spa-meets-ski-cabin vibe. Think: furry shag carpets and sumptuous armchairs set against MCM sleek wood details and curved furniture. In the face of Icelandic temperatures, it’s tempting to hang out by the lounge’s fireplace with a glass of wine (the bar is conveniently mere steps away) and a good friend—or book.
The location is ideal. Situated on the Old Harbor port, the hotel is walkable to most things in Reykjavik, and the views are excellent. It’s a great anchor to your trip as the hotel boasts a restaurant, a coffee shop, a rooftop bar, a spa, a sumptuous lounge, and more for those holes in your itinerary you don’t have the energy to fill. The spa, steeped in Icelandic wellness traditions, is a tenet of the institution—but more on that later.
What to Do in Reykjavik
Photo: Courtesy of Hvammsvik
Hvammsvik Hot Springs
If you’re not interested in the crowds flocking to the hotspot Blue Lagoon, we suggest opting for Hvammsvik Hot Springs instead. About an hour outside of the city, Hvammsvik features eight natural hot springs that overlook the ocean. The scenery is spectacular. In addition to the deep blue water, huge mountains and black beaches frame the pools. If you’re like me, you’re already worried about being cold, but don’t be. Most of their springs range from 99 to 104 degrees Fahrenheit—you might just be hot. If you’re up for it, take a quick plunge into the ocean—when in Rome, right? You can move between the pools to the steam baths effortlessly. Then, once you’ve soaked in the natural awe, it’s time for a snack. The locally-inspired menu at in-house Stormur Bistro & Bar is excellent—you have to try the seafood soup.
Photo: Nikolas Koenig
The Spa at The EDITION
Many of Iceland’s attractions center on the theme of wellness, so why not lean into that mentality with a spa day? The Reykjavik EDITION’s in-house spa is a special treat. The program offers signature ceremonies inspired by Norse runes and the Viking tradition of alternating hot and cold temperatures on the body. Call me a convert, one massage and suddenly I was feeling pretty zen. The spa itself is as beautiful as it is healing. Lose yourself in the wood-paneled sauna or drift off in the deeply indulgent bathing room.
Sample Perfumes at Fischersund
Founded in 2017 by siblings Jónsi (of acclaimed post-rock band Sigur Rós and self-taught nose), Lilja, lngibjörg, Sigurrós, and their partners Sindri and Kjartan, Fischersund is a snack for the senses—the eyes almost as much as the nose. At their Reykjavik flagship, guests can test our artisanal perfumes, candles, even tea, as they enjoy a complimentary visual experience. I’d skip the guided tour and pop in of your own volition. Be warned: nothing here is cheap, but balms and loose-leaf teas offer memorabilia at a discounted price. I guess you pay for the story behind the item—which is, I’ll admit, a pretty good one.
Photo: Camille Freestone
Sky Lagoon
You’d never know Sky Lagoon was technically inside the Reykjavik city limits unless you got the inside scoop. The thermal pools line up with the ocean so all you see is vast waters beneath the horizon. I recommend going at sunset for a truly surreal experience. Each ticket comes with a drink—always a plus—so sip your sparkling wine while the sun descends. If you want the full Icelandic experience, try the Ritual, a seven-step experience featuring a cold plunge, a steam bath, and more.
Kolaportid Flea Market
Once you’ve finished your hot dog lunch, pop by this massive flea market. This is a great spot to indulge in an Icelandic sweater or Lopapeysa. But there’s also an eclectic range of everything from beaded jewelry to old military garb to collected bits and bobs.
Photo: Camille Freestone
Shop Around Laugavegur
Start at Hallgrimskirkja and move towards the water. Skip the Instagram-bait rainbow street and meander down the streets around it, specifically Laugavegur. My personal highlight reel includes Nielsen Serverzlun, Hilder Yeoman, and Kron Kron for an enticing mix of familiar names and local brands to discover—in the latter, you might even find some Vivienne Westwood. Speckled with bars and restaurants, you’ll want to return here for a nitecap post dinner.
What to Eat and Drink in Reykjavik
Photo: Courtesy of The EDITION
Pastries at Baka Baka
Though Baka Baka offers a full-service cafe, their pastries are the star in this equation. After you’ve worked up an appetite strolling the streets post-hot dog, treat yourself to a mid-afternoon sugary snack. Pro tip: the almond croissant is to die for.
Kastrup
A short jaunt from the EDITION, head to Kastrup for an elevated yet relaxed dinner. The menu looks like an Icelandic spin on traditional bistro fare. If you want the full Icelandic treatment, opt for the smørrebrød or Scandinavian open-faced sandwiches served with fish, meat, or vegetables. Otherwise, the lemon sole is great. (Plus, it’s a great excuse to wear those fun items you packed that aren’t exactly hot-spring-appropriate.)
Hot Dogs at Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur
This unassuming food cart has been serving hotdogs to Icelanders dating back to 1937. If you order one with everything on it (as I suggest you do), it comes with ketchup, mustard, remoulade, and onions—both raw and crispy fried. Sometimes there’s a bit of a line but it moves quickly.
Coffee at Reykjavik Roasters
Icelanders take their coffee very seriously, so test out a cup for yourself at Reykjavik Roasters. Located centrally, this is a great option to kick off your day orchill with a book and an espresso mid afternoon.
Photo: Courtesy of The EDITION
Tides
Located in the EDITION, Tides is the perfect option when you want a true dining experience—and you don’t need to don a parka to get there. Gunnar Karl Gíslason, Iceland’s first Michelin-star Chef, has crafted a menu that puts a modern spin on traditional Icelandic cuisine with a focus on local produce to ensure the highest quality ingredients. If you’re feeling indulgent, splurge for the excellent tasting menu—or just add caviar to your brioche order.
Rúblan bókakaffi
In addition to coffee, Iceland has a few notable local beers worth sampling. Rúblan bókakaffi offers both a coffee set-up and full bar. There’s ample seating, all of which is encircled by a library of books. Order a Kaldi blonde at the bar and enjoy some live music as you wind down from a day traipsing around the city.